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The closer the shave, the more likely an ingrown hair is to form, because the hair can get trapped under the skin, Foulad says.
People with curly or coarse hair are most affected, Foulad says. The bumps are also more common if you regularly shave or wax before the hair has fully grown back, Houshmand says.
How should I treat them?
It can be tempting to squeeze the bumps or try to excavate the trapped hair, Foulad says, but that might increase the risk of inflammation, scarring or infection. “You shouldn’t be yanking out the hair,” she says.
Most cases typically resolve on their own within about a week, Bieber says, so it’s usually best to leave ingrown hairs alone.
But if the bumps are painful or itchy, you can try applying a warm compress (such as a wet face washer) or a topical, over-the-counter cortisone cream for a couple of days until the inflammation subsides, Mirmirani adds.
To speed healing, Foulad recommends using a benzoyl peroxide wash, which has antibacterial properties, or chemical exfoliants, such as cleansers or serums with glycolic or salicylic acid, to help open pores and let the hair peek through naturally.
Avoid scrubbing ingrown hair bumps – with loofahs or exfoliating body washes, for example – which could irritate the skin and make them worse, Bieber says.
Can I prevent ingrown hairs?
The only way to truly prevent ingrown hairs is to stop shaving, waxing or plucking, but that’s not always realistic, Mirmirani says.
If feasible, allow your hair to grow for as long as possible and wait for any existing ingrown hairs to heal before shaving or using another hair-removal method, Bieber says.
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Cleanse your skin before hair removal and always use clean tools, such as razors or tweezers, to avoid introducing germs to the skin, Foulad says. Run your tools under warm water to remove excess hair after each use, and regularly disinfect tweezers with rubbing alcohol. Replacing your razor blades frequently helps too, Bieber says.
When you shave, avoid multi-blade razors, which cut hair too close to the skin, or choose an electric razor that allows you to adjust the blades to avoid a close shave, Houshmand recommends.
Use shaving cream to reduce friction, and shave with – rather than against – the grain. Rinse your razor after each pass, Foulad says, and avoid pulling the skin taut when shaving, plucking or waxing.
After hair removal, apply a serum or moisturiser containing salicylic, glycolic or lactic acid to help soothe and exfoliate the skin and potentially prevent ingrown hairs from developing, Houshmand says.
When should I seek help?
If your ingrown hair bumps become more red or painful, or if they are warm to the touch or develop extra pus, that might signal an infection, Bieber says. Consult a medical provider, who may treat the bumps with a topical steroid or antibiotic.
Also see a dermatologist if your facial or body hair removal routine is regularly causing ingrown hairs that are bothersome, Mirmirani says. Doctors can prescribe medications, such as retinoids or topical steroids, which can reduce your risk of developing ingrown hairs in the future.
Doctors may also recommend alternative hair removal methods, such as depilatory creams, which dissolve the hair and are less likely to cause the bumps, Foulad says. Other options include laser hair removal or electrolysis, which are more permanent.
Occasional regrowth is possible with these last two methods, Mirmirani says, but the hair usually grows back thinner and rarely causes ingrown hairs.
The New York Times
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