Sustainable fashion: Is cotton always best?

“Ultimately, we should be striving for a situation where we’re not using fossil fuels to make clothing and are designing the materials in a way that they can break down safely.”

While non fossil fuel-derived synthetics are currently being developed, their commercial availability remains limited.

Man-made cellulosic fibres – plant-based fibres turned into fabrics through various manufacturing processes – like rayon and modal, are another option. Despite coming from renewable sources, many require extensive chemical treatment. Cellulosic fibres made in a closed-loop system can help reduce the leakage of chemicals into the environment. The upside, Rissanen says, is that like natural fibres they are biodegradable.

Are recycled synthetics better?

You’ll have no doubt noticed the creep of recycled synthetics, like nylon and polyester, into clothing in recent years.

Sarah Conners, head of fashion and sustainability at COLLARTS, says that if you must buy synthetics, opting for recycled fabrications can be a good way to reduce your impact. “I think we have to be realistic that synthetics are part of our supply chain right now. They’re not the greatest answer, but they’re already here, so let’s at least try and use them responsibly.”

But recycled synthetics aren’t exactly the sustainable choice they may appear to be, Rissanen says. Most are derived from plastic bottles which, once turned into clothing, cannot be recycled again.

Prioritise function and longevity

So, what factors should you consider before making a purchase? Conner says the most important thing to consider when shopping is “buying clothing that you really want and that’s going to last you for a really long time. The longer we can wear clothing, the more sustainable it’s going to be.”

Founder of Eco Styles and circular economy and waste program director at The Australia Institute, Nina Gbor, agrees, and adds that avoiding fast fashion trends and looking for “items you can use repeatedly and in multiple ways in combination with pieces in your existing wardrobe” is the best way to go.

When looking at fabrications, consider your needs and lifestyle. If you’re not someone prepared to handwash that fine knit mohair sweater, for example, then opting for something more durable might be a better investment in the long run.

Gbor also recommends approaching new purchases with a plan by researching a brand’s ethos and manufacturing process. Resources like Good on You and US not-for-profit Remake’s 2024 Fashion Accountability Reportreleased last week, can help provide greater insight.

And be wary of greenwashing, warns Gbor. “Just because there are environmental buzzwords that a brand uses does not in any way, shape or form mean they are sustainable.”

Finally, Gbor says it’s important to plan what you will do with a garment at the end of its life, whether it’s donating, mending or repurposing for another use.

Ultimately, Conners says consumers should simply aim to “take a more considered approach with the skills, ability and budget they have.”

“Maybe when you do you have to buy a new garment, it’s thinking, ‘Can I buy a more organic cotton? Could I buy something that’s a bit more biodegradable or a material that’s going to last me longer?’”

“Rather than just choosing something due to the fibre it’s about also choosing based on wearability.”

Learn about aftercare

How you care for your clothes, no matter what they’re made of, matters. When I used to work in retail, I lost count of the number of times a customer came in complaining about a “faulty” $100 cotton T-shirt they had chucked in a hot-water spin cycle.

While many garments these days might stipulate “dry-clean only”, most will fare just fine with a gentle hand wash in cold water.

“Silk has been around for a lot longer than dry cleaning,” says Rissanen. “I have hand washed, and I think I’ve even machine washed some silk things but, I think it’s also about getting clever with things like spot cleaning rather than washing the whole thing.”

“It depends also on how much of a garment is actually touching the skin, because anything that is against the skin will require more regular washing because of oils and bacteria.”

Ultimately, he says it’s about “getting curious about the clothes we have and how to care for them in a way that prolongs their life as much as possible.”

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While all clothes shed fibres while washed, of particular concern are the microplastics shed by synthetic fibres. A report from Griffith University conducted in February this year found that Australians contribute up to 21 grams of microplastics per capita each year. The most common type of microplastics found were derived from fabric. In addition to polluting our waterways, a world-first study from this month linked the tiny particles to heart attack, stroke and death. And while opting for recycled synthetics can be a way to reduce your consumption of fossil fuels, they still shed microplastics, particularly the kind used in fleece jackets.

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